What is a post driver?
The post puncher is a powerful device for physically driving posts into the soil. The post driver is perfect for fencing around cattle paddocks and for fencing around the property.
It is much lighter to use than dig a hole or use a large hammer. Simple in construction, but efficient for mounting fence posts. Although driving tubes into the ground is much easier than renting drills to dig holes, it can still require some muscle power.
Also: Gas Powered Post Driver
Best Wood Fence Post Driver Best Choice
Post Driver provides an easy way to drive steel posts. The heavy weight of the driver means the user only needs to lift the driver over the post and let the weight of the driver do the work.
Size: 600 mm (23.6 inches) overall length. 66 mm (2.59 inches) inside diameter.
Durable, corrosion-resistant materials.
TOP Wood Fence Post Driver
MAT Steel Head Fence Post Driver with Handles
Minimizes damage to tops of fence posts when compared to hammering
Handles are tapered for comfortable hand placement
Ashman 24 Inch Heavy Duty Post Driver
Designed to drive t-post, wood, metal or any type of fence posts up to 2.5″ in diameter.
Height 24” x Width 7.5” Inside diameter = 2.7″.
Urban Deco 24 Inch Fence Post Driver
Size: 23.6 inches high x 9 inches wide, inner diameter is 2.6 inches.
Minimizes damage to tops of fence posts when compared to hammering.
Wood fence post driver review
Wood Fence Post Driver Rankings
When we build a new fence with wooden posts, setting the posts is usually considered the most difficult work. The best season for fence building is early spring when the ground is well moist. In places where it is cold enough to freeze, frost lifting also helps to loosen the ground.
Wood Fence Post Driver Buying Guide
A simple tool that is not a magical device for inserting posts, rather a device that facilitates putting in wooden fence posts. Let’s be realistic about this device and realize that such equipment is not a small tool, it’s inherently weighty and work-intensive. There is no free ride here, but rather blood, sweat, and tears.
Post Rammer design
There are 5 basic models of hand-operated fence post stampers. The majority of fence post rammers are constructed in such a way that they use their natural weight to generate the punching force. Post rammers with a striking board are used together with hand-operated post rammers for guidance by an assistant. A device used in this way can prevent damage from breaking fencing poles.
- Rammers are equipped with an elongated grip construction for upward reinforcement.
- Additional reinforcing steel straps to reinforce the driver’s striking area
- With the flat side
- The construction of the collar is highly powerful
- Using a square hitting surface is very functional.
The post-stamper design described is a truly basic construction. It is essentially tubular steel that is large enough to pass over the post. Two metal handles are available for operation. The pure weight is reinforced by the heavy steel plate at the bare end for kinetic energy.
- Heavy-walled pipe
- Sturdy handles made of a thick rod
- 18-pound actuator weight
- Durable, corrosion-resistant
Try using the handheld fence post driver to fix steel poles in the soil. Made of steel, this instrument has a weight of 18 pounds. In total this steel post driver has a diameter of 3 inches and a length of 23-3/4 inches. The double handles are 13 inches in height and 3 inches from the center pole. The driver is designed to gently push the posts into the ground without damaging the top of the posts.
- Solid tube and stable heavy bar grips
- 34 lbs. drive weight
- The 34-pound driver weighs far bigger than the 12- and 18-pound drivers
It has a long-lasting, anti-corrosion powder coating that is ideal for its durability and offers a long-lasting metal surface that is resistant to corrosion, flaking, bleaching, and scratches. Furthermore, it is ideal for driving lower sized iron posts and T-posts into the soil. It also has conical grips for convenient positioning of the hands and is therefore very easy and safe to use.
- High strength welded steel
- Simple operation
- Durable powder-coated surface
The tool is designed for driving in metal, wood, T-posts, or any kind of fence post. It is also made in the United States of America from top-quality, inch-welded steel with a maximum force of 17 pounds, which provides the optimum contact pressure to hit any type of post with ease. It also features ergonomically shaped, closed grips with 1.25-inch heavy-duty tubing for greater control and grip. It also features a durable powder coating that is ideal for visibility and provides a durable metal surface that is resistant to rust, chipping, fading, and scratching.
- High strength welded steel
- Simple operation
- Durable powder-coated surface
Designed to drive T-posts, wood, metal, or any type of fence post. With a 12 pound-force that provides maximum downward pressure to drive T-posts, wood, or any type of ground or metal fence post with ease. Ergonomically designed closed handles with 24″ heavy-duty tubes for better grip and control. Height 24” x Width 7.5” Inside diameter = 2.7″.
Excellent for product visibility and a durable metal surface. Resistant to scratches, fading, chipping, and rust.
How to use it:
Step 1. Pull the Post driver with a good grip and comfortable position over the post.
Step 2. Strike with force with a good grip and comfortable position. Post driver down on the post. Repeat
Best wood fence post driver
Best wood fence post driver
Post-driving tips: Some advice to help you drive fence posts more efficiently
A post driver makes the hard work of putting a pole into the soil much simpler. The majority of post drivers are hand-operated devices, commonly called “slide hammers”. The tool is attached to the end of the pole and its weight is usually sufficient to push the post into the soil by lifting and releasing the driver, but you can still push the handles down to apply additional force. A heavier post pusher is more difficult to lift but generally does the job faster. Make sure that the post lifter you choose has the right diameter for your situation. To save time and effort, spring-loaded and mechanical pushers are also available.
Putting up a new fence is a pain – and setting up the posts is usually the most difficult part of the job. Fortunately, the newly available post drivers turn a tedious, time-consuming task into a painless one. We will tell you about how to prepare for post-driving, some post-driving tips, and some maintenance and care tips to keep your post driver in good shape.
- Preparation for post driving
Planning ahead – Choosing the right time for the fence can make all the difference in the world. Make sure you post at times of the year when the ground is neither frozen nor dry. Riding in early spring usually gives the best results. Make sure that the ground is slightly moist. Damp dirt allows easy driving on the post and ensures that the post is effectively secured.
Prepare the ground for post driving – if you need to drive the post in dry conditions, you can prepare the area by digging a hole twice as wide as the post and 10″ – 12″ deep at each post location. Fill each hole with water. Once the water is absorbed, you should be able to drive the post. If it is still too dry, simply refill the hole with water.
Do not sharpen the post – sharpening a post allows it to “push” out of the ground during the natural seasonal frost and thaw cycle.
- Advice for the driving post
Prepare the driver – Ensure that you “season” the suspension springs prior to every operation. To extend the life of the Post driver’s springs, slowly lift and drop the rider in little increments; with every lift, the spring slowly becomes higher. Repeat this for the very first post every time you operate the driver.
Put the broad end in first – driving the thick or broad end into the soil first will anchor the post better. This prevents the post from pushing through cycles of seasonal frost and defrost.
Hold the post upright – in fact, you can drive a post “upright” as soon as it skews. You can either drive the post straight using the hand cranks or the hydraulic baseplate (like driving a bent nail straight with a hammer), alternatively, you can drive the post straight using the side or back of the drive tube plus the pressure of the baseplate. Both methods can work according to soil conditions.
- Maintenance tips
Do not lubricate the driver’s channel or rails – The introduction of lubricant or oil onto the surface of the driver’s channel attracts material and foreign matter that will stick to the rail and cause the driver’s head to fall or become trapped more slowly due to the additional friction of the foreign matter and material. The best way to ensure that your driver continues to hit the rail smoothly and quickly is to ensure that the rail is dry and free of debris.
Lubricate the springs before storing – after each use, you should coat the springs with oil or transmission lubricant before storing. Lubricating the springs prevents the spring coils from binding together due to moisture and wetness. The lubricant allows the coils to separate evenly during the “ripening” process, thus extending the life of the spring.
Which Post Rammer brand shall I buy?
Making a decision for a product is easy for such a basic instrument. There are different products for post-fencing, but they are very alike. You should be cautious when buying a post rammer because some have built-in ridiculous gimmicks. Basic tools do not need gimmicks. The post rammer lives outdoors, so attaching plastic or elastic pieces will make difficulties later, as they will become worse if you live outdoors.
The main criteria are:
- Is it sturdy enough…
- Will it fit above your posts?
- Will you be able to raise it?
- Can you drive posts in the soil?
- If you choose a different method…
- If the welds are sufficient
- Is the top side of the hammer top reinforced?
Tips for fence building with a post driver
If you have planned a fence construction project for a flat, easily accessible part of your property, you have been lucky! However, many landowners are not so lucky.
Remote or difficult terrain is a common challenge on livestock and agricultural properties and can be a significant hurdle for landowners who want to build their own fences in these harsh conditions.
We all want to work smarter, not harder. And the back-breaking work of building fences on steeply sloping terrain or compacted soil falls into this “harder” category. Fortunately, this is not an insurmountable task.
1. Be guided by the land
When building a fence on rough or hilly terrain; always keep following the outlines of the land. In other words, the fence contour follows your land in a straight line that is not even, but rather parallel to the terrain. The outlined technique functions most effectively when the incline is low rather than dramatic. Do not consider the distinctive characteristics of your terrain as limits. Instead, think of them as opportunities to be more creative in your design.
2. Choose low-maintenance materials
The maintenance requirements for fences can range from simple daily maintenance to annual work with interruptions. While fencing may require constant attention, it is often the type of task that is pushed to the bottom of a “to-do” list. By reducing the time required for routine maintenance, you can get to the bottom of that “to-do” list much faster. Since fences cannot be moved, plan for a well-built, low-maintenance construction.
3. Invest in premium quality materials
No matter how much you like the vintage look of wooden fences, their upkeep is quite time-demanding. The installation of T-post fences provides greater dependability and flexibility. T-posts vary from simple fence posts and outdoor fence posts to large, heavy posts with bigger anchoring plates that offer increased holding force.
4. Construction with a view to the future
Durable fences – ones designed to have a lifespan of 25 to 50 years and requiring very little maintenance – must be properly constructed and manufactured from high-quality materials. This applies both when an area is first fenced and when old, broken fences are replaced. A regular maintenance schedule is a necessity. Anticipate the day when these fences may also need to be renewed.
The fences will, of course, become loose over time as the seasons change and will need to be reinforced. Manual clearance or the use of weedkillers will prevent the fences from being covered by grass weeds.
A carpenter’s apron is very practical for holding clips, insulators, staples, and little implements, and a proper pair of gloves will prevent hand wounds and help you grip wire. Specialized fence cutters are an outstanding investment for everyone building or maintaining fences.
5. Investing in the proper work equipment to do the job
Decide whether you would like to use a hydraulic, manual, or air-driven fence post drive.
Hand-operated drivers are a hard, work-intensive option that may need several helping hands to operate, making them even more difficult to use in difficult circumstances. Hydraulic drivers are simpler to use, but may cost several thousand dollars to buy. In addition, they tend to be rather bulky. A smaller, more lightweight, compact unit can be operated by a single person. It also reduces the back pain of driving fence posts, especially when working from a distance.
Important things to remember when using a manual post driver
1 – You are going to sweat!
Moving everything weighing about 20 or even 30 pounds up and down over and over again requires a great effort. So even on a chilly day, you’ll work up a sweat. Keep in mind that you will be sweating approximately half as hard (or less) than if you use a gas-powered drill bit, mix concrete, and get rid of all the soil. If you wish to sweat a bit less, you may use a pneumatic hammer.
2 – Release your grip on the rammer!
Release your handle on the down stroke to reduce vibration fatigue. If possible, hang on the shaft of the rammer and not on the grips. The grips will have a tendency to emit more vibrations and shocks. You will be a bit calmer in the morning than good. We suggest that this can be completely avoided by “throwing it down”. In other words, let go of your hands completely before dropping anchor, interact.
3 – Give yourself a rest!
Take the most physically exhausting part of your project and split it into shorter pieces to make it easier. Just take it slow and enjoy it. You will be faster than if you needed to drill, mix concrete and tidy up.
4 – Your anchor can get out of the plain very quickly
After your anchor has penetrated about 18 inches into the ground, start checking at intervals of about 6 inches while penetrating the ground to make sure it is level. This will slow you down considerably, but will ultimately save you time by avoiding a heavily curved anchor.
5 – Get down on your knees!
When you sink that far into the floor, use a cardboard box as an underlay for your knees. For evident purposes, this is the way to go at a lower height.
6 – Keep your head!
If the rammer is only above the anchor, on the downstroke (especially if you are tired), you can get a little off-center. Because you are lowering it again, you might hit the tip of the anchor. If this happens, it can cause the post to come down to your bulb. This is especially a problem if the rammer is used at head height or above. If you have a hard hat, why don’t you wear it? Do not be afraid to look like a slightly anal safety inspector. These boys and girls have their jobs for a reason.
7 – Use gloves
If your hands are not conditioned for manual labor, you should wear gloves when tapping to avoid blisters. This is especially true on very warm days, when the skin on your hands starts to sweat.
Q: The best weight of the rammer
A: Once you have decided to purchase the post rammer for your fencing projects, you need to choose the best weight of the rammer for you. Heavier rammer is better for efficiency, however, you should consider: “Can I raise it one at a time? When you are well-built, consider buying a sturdier rammer, but be aware that you might be the only one who can use it.
Q: Why is it so common to drive posts directly on the soil?
A: It’s an easy question to answer because it is so economical and convenient. Alternatively, you can use concrete to stabilize posts in a pre-punched hole.
Q: Where to buy fence posts?
A: Posts that can be used with a post rammer are easy and inexpensive to find in the countryside. Farmers usually have woods to cultivate and often make their own poles for keeping their livestock grazing. A lot of farmers consider this to be a good financial deal and make posts for the local population. You can buy your stakes from different places, and it is simple to find post providers from various locations.